For most people, “black tie” is the most formal dress code there is. While technically superior to white tie, black tie attire is the more common, modern pinnacle of formal wear that most people will experience at some point in their lives.

Whether it’s a formal wedding, a grand gala, or the opening night of the opera, tuxedos are about following a strict set of rules and sticking to a uniform look — and they’re about much more than just standing out from the crowd. When an event calls for a tuxedo, you want to fit in, and that means getting all the little details just right. Unfortunately, as formal wear moves in a more casual direction, some men often make a number of common mistakes when putting together their tuxedo outfits. While some of these may seem a bit fussy, paying attention to detail is a fundamental principle of tuxedo dressing. So it’s important to be aware of some common missteps that can happen as you climb the tuxedo ladder.

Wearing a Black Tie Instead of a Bow Tie
You’d be surprised how often this happens! For some men who aren’t quite as familiar with the true definition of a tuxedo, or those who are trying to “modernize” their outfits a bit, this is a mistake that should be avoided at all costs. Black tie is definitely black tie in the true sense, but the black tie dress code strictly requires a black bow tie; meaning it’s made of the same silk-satin material as the lapel of a tuxedo. You can’t swap one for the other. We get it – you’re worried that a bow tie will make you look silly. But when you consider the context of a proper tuxedo outfit, we guarantee that the result is anything but. It looks smart and put together, and shows that you understand and appreciate the rich history of menswear.

Wearing a Black Suit Instead of a Tuxedo
This is arguably the biggest fashion sin on a long list of other fashion sins, but it can’t be underestimated enough – don’t do it under any circumstances! We really do have your best interests at heart here.
So, you’ve been invited to an event with tuxedos, but you don’t have a tux. Oh, you’re thinking to yourself, my plain black suit will do just fine. While we understand that not everyone will have a tuxedo waiting for them in their closet, to the discerning eye, you will unfortunately look out of place if you try. A proper tuxedo is different from a regular black suit in a few obvious ways and will simply look out of place. According to the black tie dress code, the waistband of the trousers should never be exposed. Traditionally, men have worn an additional low-cut vest or waistcoat, or a silk satin waistband, more commonly known as a cummerbund. In recent years, more and more men have been ignoring this rule, and the results are not so encouraging. The visual and aesthetic purpose of the waistband is to elongate the legs and lower body, while also preventing the white of the shirt from showing through under the jacket buttonhole. It contributes to an overall cleaner, more stylish look. Some men are a bit hesitant to wear a vest or waistband because they fear it will make them look old-fashioned. This may be the case for some aesthetic tastes – that’s the whole point of tuxedo dressing. It’s all about tradition! Don’t mess with the flow. Follow this rule and you’ll look ten times better. The only possible exception is when it comes to double-breasted tuxedos, where many people find the waistband a bit unnecessary. However, if you are used to unbuttoning your double-breasted jacket when sitting, then there are those who think, or even suggest, that a waistband is fine.

Thrown for a Loop
Some men have the privilege of having a custom tuxedo designed for themselves. While this opens up a lot of exciting possibilities and can probably make for a great fit, it is important to be aware of what details you should leave out of your tuxedo. A good tailor will advise you otherwise if you ask, but for some reason, custom tuxedos with belt loops at the waistband are also available. These are an aesthetic and/or functional choice for almost any outfit, but tuxedo pants are traditionally held in place with side adjusters or suspenders, and usually have the necessary buttons already sewn into them.
Perhaps even worse than neglecting to wear a cummerbund or vest is ruining the stylish fit between trousers and jacket with a belt. Beware!

Choosing the Right Shoes While there are certainly options to choose from when it comes to proper tuxedo shoes, don’t settle for just any old black shoe. Men often assume that their current black “formal” shoes will match their tuxedo, but sometimes they are a little misinformed. As a rule of thumb, try to avoid black derbies. Even if you get the color right, a derby-style shoe is considered relatively casual and contrasts too much with the formality of a tuxedo. Instead, opt for black Oxfords or opera heels. For the former, the simpler the better. Avoid wingtip oxfords and definitely avoid overly elaborate styles like brogues. Closed-toe shoes are also considered casual, but in theory you can get by with that as long as the shoe is a true closed-lace oxford (although this is not really recommended). Opera shoes are a bit of a dress shoe/slide hybrid and are a valid choice for a tuxedo. Looking to throw everything else out of the way? Consider patent leather oxfords or opera shoes . This is a high-shine finish that really shines and has become the epitome of tuxedo attire.

Avoid Matching Shirts
When choosing the right shirt for your outfit, don’t just assume that any old white shirt will do the job. In fact, traditional, proper tuxedo shirts differ in a few ways and even come in a few varieties. First, they usually have a piqué bib or pleated front, and the top few buttons are ideally fastened with a row of shirt buttons (also known as tuxedo buttons). Additionally, a proper formal shirt will always feature French cuffs that are fastened with a pair of cufflinks. It is common practice for these to be part of a matching set along with studded buttons, but it is not mandatory. Finally, pay attention to the collar. The most contemporary option is a typical spread collar, which is ideal for the width of a bow tie. However, some prefer a wing-collar shirt, which has two “wings” that stand tall across the neck and rise up the front to tuck in behind your bow tie. So, you have options to play with. But don’t just settle for a plain white shirt. Get it right and it will make a world of difference.

Tie the Perfect Knot!
Look, we get it. Tying a bow tie is no easy task for some people, especially if you’ve never done it before. And the abundance of perfect-looking pre-tied options you can find online can be tempting! But that’s the point. They can be a little too perfect.
Look, most pre-tied bow ties, whether they’re the kind you tie in the back or the much more dreaded clip-on variety, have a knot that looks so perfect and barely changes. As nice as it may sound, the perfection of the pre-tied knot is also its downfall. It just gives it away and has the opposite effect. Instead of looking sharp, it can look a little silly. There’s something to be said for the raw authenticity of tying a well-tied, but not perfectly symmetrical, knot by hand. You should aim to make it look as neat as possible – but it’s never quite perfect. That’s the magic, and that’s why it’s worth learning and practicing how to tie your own bow tie.

Be Careful!
If you avoid these traps and follow the rules, we have no doubt that you will look amazing at your next tuxedo event.

While much of fashion is about experimentation and flashy statements, it is important to understand the purpose of the tuxedo; to show a certain level of politeness and respect for the uniform. However, that does not mean that you cannot look great while doing it. Quite the contrary! Stick to the script, make informed decisions, and your tuxedo outfit will really shine on the night.